N3W5 watch brand, a new vision of time
The N3W5 watch brand is entering a sector where credibility isn't proclaimed; it's built. A high-end watch must convince through its design, its mechanics, its finishing, its reliability, and its service.
The announcement came on July 1, 2026. The Honourable Merchants Group (THMG), the company founded by François-Henri Bennahmias after his departure from Audemars Piguet at the end of 2023, officially announced the launch of its first watch brand. The Swiss daily newspaper Le Temps, which interviewed the founder at THMG's headquarters in Nyon, confirmed the stated timeline: the first collection will not be presented until the end of 2027.
This timeframe may seem long. However, it reflects the reality of the profession. Developing a caliber takes time. Testing a watch requires patience. Adjusting a case requires numerous prototypes.
N3W5 is pronounced "News." Its name is an acronym of the cardinal directions in English: North, East, West, South. The founder explains this choice as a simple legal constraint: the word "news," being too common, could not be trademarked. The coded spelling solves the problem and, incidentally, suggests a company open to influences, collaborations, and expertise from diverse backgrounds.
The stated philosophy is inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and his famous phrase: "What is essential is invisible to the eyes." The project is not simply presented as another Swiss brand. It advocates a collective approach. Craftsmen, dial makers, engineers, engravers, enamelers, and component manufacturers occupy a central place in the narrative.
This approach meets a strong expectation among collectors. Watch enthusiasts no longer simply want to know the name of a brand. They want to understand what lies behind the dial. They examine the movements. They observe the finishing. They are interested in the craftsmanship.
The N3W5 watch brand will therefore have to turn its promise into reality. In 2027, the public will judge the proportions, the calibers, the quality of execution, the consistency of the design, and the brand's ability to create a lasting identity.
François-Henri Bennahmias, an experience that creates high expectations
The name François-Henri Bennahmias immediately lends a special dimension to N3W5. He led Audemars Piguet from 2012 to the end of 2023. Under his leadership, the Le Brassus manufacture's annual revenue grew from approximately 500 million to over 2 billion Swiss francs. He also guided the Royal Oak to its status as a global luxury icon.
The former managing director knows the realities of high-end watchmaking. He knows distribution. He knows collectors. He knows the constraints of production.
Running a major watch manufacturer isn't just about devising campaigns or developing collections. It's about understanding the entire value chain: the cases, the dials, the movements, the straps, the finishes, the spare parts, and the after-sales service.
This expertise lends credibility to the project. So does the address book: rather than investing in costly marketing campaigns, the founder intends to rely on the international network of collectors cultivated during his years at the head of AP.
However, this does not exempt N3W5 from proving itself. A new brand remains a new brand. It must create its own codes. It must offer a personal interpretation of time.
Collectors will pay close attention to detail. They will examine the movement's construction. They will scrutinize the shape of the lugs. They will compare the finishes. They will look for a signature that doesn't too directly evoke the established brands.
N3W5's challenge will therefore be to embrace this experience without being overshadowed by it. The brand must demonstrate that it has its own raison d'être, its own language, and its own relationship to haute horlogerie.
Funding of 30 million Swiss francs
According to information published during the announcement, the project is backed by a 30 million Swiss franc fundraising round conducted through The Honourable Merchants Group. This amount is significant for a young watchmaking company. However, it remains modest in light of the stated industrial ambitions: several thousand pieces per year in the medium term.
This financial choice sheds light on the strategy. N3W5 is not building an integrated manufacture from day one. The brand is investing in caliber development, design, prototypes, and partnerships. Production relies on a network of already equipped Swiss specialists.
This approach limits fixed costs. It reduces industrial risk. In return, it requires flawless coordination between partners.
A house designed as a collective
The vision announced by N3W5 is based on a powerful idea: the watch should not erase those who make it. On the contrary, it should reveal their contribution.
In his statement, François-Henri Bennahmias summarizes the intention: to put back at the center the discreet know-how and the people whose contributions give birth to exceptional objects, in an industry which he considers to be increasingly defined by logos and trends.
This approach contrasts sharply with communication that often focuses on the final product. A watch appears in a shop window. The dial catches the eye. The case captures the light. Yet, many different skills are involved before this stage.
A dial maker works the surface. An engineer designs the movement's architecture. A craftsman engraves a mainplate. A guilloché engraver creates patterns. An enameller adds depth to the color. A polisher refines the edges.
N3W5 aims to raise the profile of these professions. This initiative may appeal to a new generation of collectors. It may also resonate with enthusiasts already passionate about movements, crafts, and Swiss workshops.
A collaborative hub at the heart of the N3W5 strategy
The watch brand N3W5 does not claim to be a closed, in-house manufacture. It relies on an ecosystem of partners. This method is common in independent haute horlogerie. It can even become a strength when implemented with rigor.
A luxury watch brings together several skills. The case requires precise manufacturing. The dial demands specific expertise. The strap must combine comfort, durability, and aesthetics. The movement must be designed, decorated, assembled, and regulated.
The announced partners outline the map of this network. Biwi, Multicuirs, and Werthanor are involved in the cases and straps. LM Cadrans and Metalem will produce the dials. Astro is leading the engineering. Alpine Précision, Régence Production, and TimeForge are involved in the movement development.
The design is entrusted to a trio: Xavier Casals, Dalibor Klas and Sébastien Perret. Three signatures to build a common language for the two collections.
This list demonstrates the project's ambition. It also reveals the complexity of the future organization. A client never buys a collection of suppliers; they buy a watch. N3W5 will therefore have to succeed in unifying these skills. The final result must be seamless. Each element must find its place. The coherence must be visible on the wrist.
Transparency as a driver of trust
Collectors increasingly value transparency. They want to know if a movement is designed in-house, developed with a partner, or adapted from an existing base. They look at the origin of the components. They are interested in the service.
This curiosity is not a threat. It can become an opportunity. A young brand gains credibility when it clearly explains its choices. It doesn't need to pretend to do everything alone to convince people.
N3W5 also chose to publicly name its partners from the outset of the project. This approach remains rare in an industry accustomed to trade secrets. It establishes transparency as a hallmark of the brand even before the first watch.
In fine watchmaking, mystery remains precious. So does clarity. Luxury becomes stronger when it is based on precise facts, visible gestures, and deliberate technical choices.
Crafts as a brand language
N3W5 announces the participation of guilloché artist Yann von Kaenel. Guilloché is one of the most fascinating artistic crafts in watchmaking. It consists of engraving regular patterns on the dial or on certain components.
These patterns are not merely decorative. They capture the light. They create depth. They transform the perception of the dial depending on the angle of the wrist.
Hand-engraving demands extreme precision. The movement must remain consistent. The pressure must be controlled. The slightest error can compromise the piece. This slowness is part of its value.
For N3W5, guilloché can become a defining element of identity. However, it must be integrated into a comprehensive vision. A beautiful pattern alone is not enough. It must harmonize with the hands, the hour markers, the typography, and the case proportions.
Enamel, a living material
Enameller Anita Porchet is also among the announced talents. Her name carries weight in the world of fine crafts: her dials have graced some of the most sought-after pieces of contemporary haute horlogerie.
Enamel occupies a special place in the arts and crafts. This technique allows for the creation of deep, brilliant, sometimes almost shimmering colours.
The enameling process involves several steps. Powders are applied, fired at high temperatures, and then polished. Each firing can alter the color, texture, and depth.
An enamel dial is never quite like another. This uniqueness creates a special feeling. The surface seems alive. It reacts to light. It gives the watch a more sensitive dimension.
The challenge lies in avoiding gratuitous decorative effects. The enamel must serve the design. It must reinforce the watch's identity. It must remain true to the spirit of the collection.
Engraving, the art of personalizing mechanics
Engravers Pierre-Alain Lozeron and Kevin Vatteau are also involved in the project. The engraving can be applied to a bridge, a mainplate, an oscillating weight, a case back, or a case middle.
This technique transforms metal into an expressive surface. It creates reliefs. It reveals patterns. It gives a special presence to components often invisible at first glance.
Engraving possesses a rare power. It can tell a story without adding color. It relies on depth, light, and the precision of the line.
For a new brand, it can also create a sense of intimacy. The collector discovers part of the watch's identity when they turn the case over. They then enter the mechanical world of the piece.
Two collections to establish a watchmaking signature
The first N3W5 collection will feature a round case. This shape remains the most universal in watchmaking, the one used by the greatest horological icons. It can be classic. It can be modern. It can accommodate a wide variety of dials, complications, and finishes.
A round case demands a mastery of proportions. The diameter matters. The thickness matters. The bezel width matters. The lug shape matters. A few tenths of a millimeter can completely alter the look of a watch.
For N3W5, this line represents an opportunity to define its language. The hands. The indices. The crown. The typography. The polished or satin surfaces must create an identifiable presence.
The risk of a round case remains obvious. The shape is familiar. It has been explored by many brands. A young brand must therefore find a new tension. It must offer a design signature that stands up to comparison.
A cushion-like line, more architectural in style
The second collection will feature a cushion-shaped case. Its launch is announced for 2028, one year after the round line. This shape lies between a circle and a square. It has a more expressive presence and can give a watch a more sculptural look.
The cushion-shaped case often offers ample space for the dial. It can accommodate a play of materials. It can showcase guilloché work. It can add more character to a three-hand watch as well as to a complication.
This duality between round and cushion shapes provides an initial structure to the project. One collection may appeal to lovers of classicism. The other may attract customers looking for a more assertive form.
Consistency between the two lines will be essential. They must share a family resemblance: a similar approach to finishing, the same quality of movement, and a shared vision of luxury watchmaking.
Two dedicated calibers, the true test of credibility N3W5
The dial is captivating. The case defines its silhouette. The movement remains the heart of the project. In high-end watchmaking, the caliber allows one to assess the depth of a new brand.
N3W5 announces two dedicated movements, developed specifically for the brand. One of the calibers is protected by several patents. This news creates high expectations. A new movement must not only be different; it must offer true technical coherence.
Collectors will examine the architecture. They will observe the bridges. They will analyze the finishes. They will be interested in the power reserve. They will check the quality of the regulation. They will want to understand the significance of the announced patents.
A caliber can be captivating for its beauty. It can also convince with its robustness. A good mechanism should remain pleasant to use. It must be reliable. It must be maintainable over time.
N3W5 will have to explain its choices precisely. Who develops? Who produces? Who assembles? Who regulates? Who provides after-sales service? These questions are part of watchmaking culture.
Innovation must serve the wrist
Watchmaking innovation makes sense when it enhances the experience. A smoother winding system. Improved timekeeping stability. Reduced thickness. A useful power reserve. A more intuitive complication.
Technology shouldn't become just an isolated concept. It must be translated into practical use. A watch should remain comfortable to wear. It should offer a clear reading. It should create a connection with its owner.
The future strength of the N3W5 will depend on this balance. A beautiful mechanical idea. A coherent aesthetic. A perfect feel on the wrist. A finish that makes you want to admire the watch for a long time.
A price range from 20,000 to 60,000 Swiss francs
N3W5 announces an entry price of 20,000 Swiss francs, with more elaborate pieces reaching approximately 60,000 francs. This range positions the brand in a demanding segment, competing with established independent brands like Laurent Ferrier and Rexhep Rexhepi, as well as certain offerings from major watchmakers.
At this price point, a watch must offer real value. A dedicated movement. Quality components. Meticulous finishing. A strong identity. Reliable service. A credible story.
The context adds another layer of difficulty. The Swiss watch industry is experiencing a slowdown, and new brands positioned above 20,000 francs are proliferating without a corresponding increase in demand. N3W5 is therefore launching its project against the grain.
Price should never be the primary consideration. It should reflect the time required for production. It should reflect the rarity of the craftsmanship. It should reflect the quality of the execution. It should reflect the coherence of the project.
An expensive watch becomes desirable when it possesses a certain inherent quality. This quality can stem from the case design, an exceptional dial, its mechanical construction, a finishing detail, or a genuine story.
A rarity that must remain legitimate
Scarcity is a powerful language in luxury. It should not become a source of frustration. It must be justified by the time required by the artisans, for adjustments, finishing touches, and production.
N3W5 aims to produce several thousand watches per year in the long term, all manufactured in Switzerland. This prospect demonstrates that the brand does not intend to remain a highly exclusive project. It wants to establish itself within the watchmaking landscape, with an industrial ambition significantly greater than that of typical independent micro-brands.
This ambition requires a robust organization. Partners must be able to keep pace. Quality must remain consistent. Deliveries must be controlled. The service must be ready to support growth.
The key will be balance. Produce enough to build a community. Maintain a high enough standard to remain desirable. Never let quantity compromise quality.
Dubai Watch Week 2027, the first decisive meeting
Dubai Watch Week provides a strategic setting to present the N3W5, in a city that has become a major hub for global luxury. The event attracts collectors, retailers, journalists, designers, and fine watch enthusiasts from numerous countries.
For a new brand, this context allows them to go beyond just an image. Visitors will be able to handle the watch, examine the dials, try on the cases, observe the movements, and ask questions of the teams.
A high-end watch is rarely appreciated on a screen. You have to handle it. You have to observe the reflections of the metal. You have to feel the bracelet. You have to listen to the winding of the crown. You have to see how the dial reacts to the light.
N3W5 will need to make this launch a concrete demonstration. Collectors expect polished watches. They will want to understand the calibers. They will seek answers regarding delivery times, editions, and after-sales service. The planned commercial launch in 2028 will leave little time between the presentation and the first deliveries.
After-sales service, a promise spanning several decades
A mechanical watch is a long-term investment. The relationship with the customer never ends with the purchase. Servicing, adjustment, repair, and component availability are just as important as the initial launch.
A collector who invests tens of thousands of Swiss francs wants reassurance. He wants to know where his watch will be serviced. He wants to know the warranties. He wants to have confidence in the brand's ability to deliver in ten or twenty years.
François-Henri Bennahmias' experience is an asset. It must now be translated into a concrete organization. A new watch brand isn't built solely on a beautiful first collection. It's built on trust.
N3W5 will have to convince with the watch
N3W5, the watch brand, arrives with a clear ambition: to put artisans at the forefront, to create two collections, to develop dedicated calibers, and to build a Swiss company focused on collaboration, financed by 30 million Swiss francs and led by one of the industry's most renowned executives.
The project is appealing because of its approach. It meets a strong market demand. Collectors are looking for more substance. They want to understand the techniques, the workshops, the finishes, the technical choices.
The announcements create an expectation. The watches must live up to it. Design. Proportions. Mechanics. Finishes. Reliability. Service. A young brand can make its mark on watchmaking when every detail confirms its promise.
At the end of 2027, in Dubai, N3W5 will have to prove that its collaborative model can become a true signature. Fine watchmaking isn't judged solely by the power of a narrative. It's judged by the quality of a timepiece.
Sources
- Le Temps, "Breeder of champion watchmakers François-Henri Bennahmias announces the birth of his brand, N3W5", July 1, 2026
- Europa Star, “The Honourable Merchants Group announces the launch of N3W5, its watch brand”, July 2026
- Journal du Luxe, “The Honourable Merchants Group enters the watchmaking industry with N3W5”, July 2026
- RTS, "Despite the crisis in the watchmaking sector, François-Henry Bennahmias launches his luxury watch brand N3W5", July 2026
- Monochrome Watches, “Former AP-CEO François-Henri Bennahmias reveals watch project”, July 2026
