Saint Laurent Vermeil, a collection born from the great reset of 2012
In the early 2010s, Saint Laurent wasn't simply looking to change its silhouette. The house undertook a complete transformation of its identity, its campaigns, and its relationship with contemporary culture. Appointed creative and image director on March 6, 2012, Hedi Slimane was given artistic responsibility for the entire brand and its collections. A few months later, Saint Laurent Vermeil, a jewelry line designed as a direct extension of this new visual language.
Graphic, two-tone, and intentionally unisex, the collection combines silver with the warm glow of gold. It falls somewhere between traditional jewelry and a simple fashion accessory. It belongs to that in-between space that Slimane masters perfectly: where a precious object becomes a statement of attitude, almost an element of a uniform.
Hedi Slimane's return to Yves Saint Laurent, the fashion house where he directed menswear collections until 2000, marks the beginning of a period of renewal. The designer is not simply designing clothes. He is also involved in shaping the brand's image, boutiques, communication, campaigns, and overall coherence.
This strategy is embodied in particular by the commercial use of the name Saint Laurent Paris. The change does not signify the abandonment of Yves Saint Laurent's legacy: it refers to the Saint Laurent Rive Gauche ready-to-wear line created in 1966. It nevertheless reflects a clear desire to simplify the brand, to make it more direct, younger, and more immediately recognizable.
The Saint Laurent Vermeil collection emerged in this context. Slimane's first creations were announced in stores for the beginning of 2013, while Kering spoke of a complete transformation and repositioning of the house.
To place this capsule collection in the overall evolution of the brand, the dossier dedicated to the Saint Laurent universe on Luxe Daily allows us to follow the continuity between the Parisian heritage, the Slimane period and the contemporary collections.
What does the word "vermeil" actually mean?
The name of the collection is not simply a poetic evocation of gold. Vermeil corresponds to a specific category of jewelry.
In France, the term is reserved for silver items covered with a layer of gold of at least 750 parts per thousand, the equivalent of 18-karat gold. The gold layer must be at least 5 microns for the piece to be sold as vermeil.
The descriptions published at the launch of Saint Laurent Vermeil specifically mentionedsterling silver plated with 18-karat gold. The presence of solid silver therefore distinguishes these pieces from those made of simple gold-plated metal.
This construction offers several advantages:
- the density and cold feel ofsolid silver ;
- the more sensual shine of18-carat gold on the surface;
- a more affordable cost than that of a piece made entirely of gold;
- the possibility of combining gold and silver finishes within the same collection.
The choice of vermeil is particularly consistent with Slimane's aesthetic. It maintains a precious feel without veering into ceremonial jewelry. The piece remains close to the body, to clothing, and to nightlife.
Gold and silver: contrast as a visual signature
Saint Laurent Vermeil is based on a very legible grammar: clean lines, polished surfaces, clear sections and contrast between yellow and white metal.
Rather than using a multitude of stones, ornaments , or decorative references, Slimane focuses attention on form. Gold is not used to display spectacular wealth; it becomes a source of light. Silver, on the other hand, brings a more industrial, colder, and almost utilitarian dimension.
This tension between sophistication and toughness is central to Saint Laurent's vocabulary of the time. It is reflected in black jackets, ankle boots, chains, leather, and deliberately narrow silhouettes. Jewelry is not an afterthought; it is an integral part of the outfit's design.
This approach also signals a lasting evolution in contemporary jewelry, increasingly designed for everyday wear. As our analysis of how fine jewelry is becoming more personal and wearable, a piece's value no longer rests solely on the quantity of stones or its ceremonial nature. It also depends on its ability to express personality.
The nail, or the beauty of a repurposed object
Among the motifs associated with the collection, the nail occupies a central place. Slimane is less interested in its decorative dimension than in its graphic power. An elementary, functional, and almost brutal object, it becomes a precious line once polished, bent, and worn against the skin.
The Two Nails necklace , made of silver and gold, was among the most talked-about pieces at the launch. Its price was announced at $1,990, while the first rings started at around $300.
The name Deux Clous (Two Nails) perfectly encapsulates the approach: starting with an ordinary element and reducing it to its purest form. No complicated narrative is necessary. The piece of jewelry rests on a recognizable silhouette, a metallic tension, and a gesture.
This aesthetic is part of a broader history of the stud jewel, regularly reinterpreted by luxury houses as a symbol of strength, transgression, or industrial repurposing. At Saint Laurent, it becomes more understated and nocturnal: less a statement piece than a visual punctuation mark.
A unisex collection by design
Saint Laurent Vermeil has been presented from the outset in both the men's and women's collections of the house. This dual presence is not merely a commercial decision. It reflects a truly androgynous conception of jewelry.
The shapes are not based on codes traditionally associated with a gender. The rings, cuffs and necklaces are constructed around elementary volumes, polished metals and proportions measured enough to adapt to various body types.
The piece of jewelry can therefore be:
- worn alone as a minimalist symbol;
- combined with other rings;
- placed on a bare wrist;
- paired with a tuxedo jacket;
- superimposed on a thinner chain;
- mixed with silver or gold jewelry already owned.
This freedom of composition corresponds to the Saint Laurent silhouette of the Slimane period: a sharp look, often black, which circulates between men's and women's wardrobe without seeking to resolve this ambiguity.
Androgyny, therefore, is not solely due to the casting of the campaign. It is found in the very structure of the pieces.
Christopher Owens, the face of a new Saint Laurent
To embody this first sequence, Hedi Slimane photographed Christopher Owens, then known as the singer and guitarist of the band Girls. The images were released in September 2012, before the wider presentation of the capsule collection in December. The musician notably wears a two-tone cuff from the unisex collection.
This choice is revealing. Slimane isn't looking for a traditional ambassador or a celebrity chosen solely for their audience. Owens embodies a musical sensibility, a fragility, and a slenderness that correspond to the silhouette envisioned for the new Saint Laurent.
The black and white photography almost entirely eliminates any notion of setting. Clothing, the body, and jewelry become the sole elements of the narrative. Luxury is not presented as a closed or theatrical world, but as an intimate attitude captured in a portrait.
Christopher Owens thus occupies a pivotal position. His campaign preceded the formal launch of the Saint Laurent Music Project, unveiled in spring 2013 with Courtney Love, Kim Gordon, Marilyn Manson, and Ariel Pink. Some publications subsequently considered Owens one of the first faces of this vast photographic project dedicated to musicians.
Saint Laurent Vermeil should therefore not be isolated from the rest of Slimane's work. The collection participates in a larger image system in which music, clothing, and photography feed into a single identity.
This cultural strategy remains evident in the house's current campaigns. Analyzing the Saint Laurent x Charli XCX reveals how this association between music, nocturnal tension, and a radical image continues to fuel Saint Laurent's desirability.
Jewelry of attitude rather than jewelry of demonstration
Saint Laurent Vermeil matters because it offers a different way of thinking about couture house jewelry.
The collection does not seek to compete with high jewelry in terms of exceptional stones or the craftsmanship of Place Vendôme. Its ambition is different: to create a signature piece of jewelry, immediately identifiable, precious enough to be kept, but simple enough to be worn often.
Three ideas structure this proposal.
1. The jewelry complements the silhouette
A cuff is not an added element to an outfit. It extends a jacket sleeve, highlights a wrist, and creates a point of light in a black silhouette.
2. The value is located in the line
The strength of the object depends on the precision of a curve, the polish of a surface, and the balance between gold and silver. Design replaces excess.
3. Identity matters as much as preciousness
Wearing Saint Laurent Vermeil is akin to adopting a cultural language: that of rock, androgyny, and a deliberately austere Parisian elegance.
This logic can be seen in several jewelry trends for fall-winter 2025-2026, including the return of cuffs, hard metals and pieces capable of structuring an outfit on their own.
What pieces made up Saint Laurent Vermeil?
The commercial archives available online are currently fragmentary. The collection nevertheless included several categories of jewelry, among them:
- rings in silver and vermeil ;
- graphic rings;
- rigid bracelets;
- two-tone cuffs;
- chains and pendants;
- the Two Nails necklace ;
- several creations combining visible silver and gilded surfaces.
The designs appear to have been developed as a family rather than as a single iconic piece. They share a similar economy of lines and a tension between precious finish and industrial inspiration.
The historical capsule collection is no longer listed among the Saint Laurent jewelry categories currently presented on the official French website. In July 2026, the house will offer separate fashion jewelry in metal and a collection of precious jewelry in 18-karat gold, notably featuring the Cassandre motif. This represents a different jewelry offering, developed after the Slimane era. This conclusion is based on a review of the current official catalog.
Saint Laurent Vermeil coins are now mainly found on the second-hand, in specialized sales and in collectors' archives.
How to recognize an antique Saint Laurent Vermeil jewel?
Purchasing an archival piece requires more attention than ordering from the manufacturer. The condition of the veneer, markings, and provenance must be carefully examined.
Examine the engravings
Depending on the design, a piece may bear a Saint Laurent Paris, a silver hallmark, or a stamp. The markings must be clear, regular, and consistent with the dimensions of the piece.
The presence of a hallmark is not, however, sufficient on its own to establish authenticity. The entire manufacturing process must be examined.
Check the silver base
Genuine vermeil jewelry is based on silver, not brass or a fancy alloy. A vague marketing description like "gold-plated metal" does not necessarily mean vermeil.
Observe the wear and tear on the gilding
On a piece of jewelry that has been worn, the gold plating may wear away on edges and in areas of friction. Regular wear revealing the silver underneath is consistent with the lifespan of a vermeil piece. However, greenish corrosion may indicate the presence of a different base metal.
Request the origin
A case, pouch, invoice, sales certificate, or ownership history enhances traceability. For a piece that has become rare, the quality of its provenance can be almost as important as its aesthetic condition.
Compare the proportions
Slimane's period creations generally favor precise execution and controlled proportions. A piece that is too light, crudely polished, or exhibits irregular joinery warrants further examination.
How to wear Saint Laurent Vermeil jewelry?
The strength of the collection lies in its ability to work with a limited wardrobe. A few combinations are all it takes.
A sleeve on bare skin
Worn with a black jacket, a white shirt or a ribbed tank top, a vermeil cuff adds a touch of light without breaking the rigor of the silhouette.
Rings in accumulation
Two graphic rings can be paired with a smooth silver ring. The aim is not to create perfect symmetry, but a rhythm between the gold and silver surfaces.
The mixture of metals
Saint Laurent Vermeil fully legitimizes the mix of gold and silver. There's no need to choose a single metal color for the entire outfit: contrast is precisely part of the collection's vocabulary.
A pendant on a white t-shirt
A graphic necklace or pendant inspired by the Two Nails design can be worn over a slightly low-cut white t-shirt, a fitted shirt or a very simple black collar.
A striking piece of jewelry, few accessories
Slimane's aesthetic works best when the jewelry maintains space around it. A cuff, a ring, or a necklace is usually enough to create the focal point.
How to care for a vermeil jewel?
Vermeil has a precious base, but its gold layer remains sensitive to friction, chemicals, and prolonged humidity.
To preserve its shine:
- remove the jewelry before showering, swimming or engaging in sports activities;
- avoid all direct contact with perfume, cosmetics, chlorine and household products;
- Wipe the item after each use with a soft, dry cloth;
- store jewelry separately to limit micro-scratches;
- avoid abrasive products intended for cleaning silver, which could damage the gilding;
- entrusting a very worn gilding to a professional capable of assessing a possible restoration.
Saint Laurent now recommends avoiding contact between its jewelry and cosmetics, perfume, chlorine, and water. For its gold creations, the brand also advises individual storage to prevent rubbing and scratches.
Why does Saint Laurent Vermeil remain an important collection?
More than ten years after its launch, Saint Laurent Vermeil retains a surprising relevance. The capsule collection established several principles early on that are now central to fashion jewelry: the development of gender-neutral jewelry, the deliberate mixing of gold and silver, the search for a precious yet wearable piece, the return of cuffs and graphic volumes, the use of jewelry as a cultural marker, and the connection between fashion campaigns and the music scene.
It also illustrates the consistency of Slimane's method. The designer does not separate the product from its cultural environment. The choice of metal, the silhouette, the casting, the photography, and the music all tell the same story.
Saint Laurent Vermeil is therefore not just a capsule collection of jewelry launched between 2012 and 2013. It constitutes one of the first manifesto objects of the new Saint Laurent: more direct, younger, more musical and deliberately androgynous.
FAQ about Saint Laurent Vermeil
What is the Saint Laurent Vermeil collection?
Saint Laurent Vermeil is a unisex jewelry collection designed under the artistic direction of Hedi Slimane. Introduced in 2012, it primarily combines sterling silver with an 18-karat gold finish.
When was Saint Laurent Vermeil launched?
The first images appeared in September 2012. The capsule collection was officially presented in the press in December 2012, before an announced arrival in stores at the end of January 2013.
Is Saint Laurent Vermeil a men's or women's collection?
The collection was offered in both styles. Its essential shapes and proportions were designed for unisex.
Is vermeil solid gold?
No. Vermeil consists of a silver base covered with gold. In France, the designation requires, among other things, a gold layer of at least 5 microns and a minimum fineness of 750 parts per thousand.
Who appears in the Saint Laurent Vermeil campaign?
Musician Christopher Owens, former member of the band Girls, is photographed by Hedi Slimane for the first images associated with the collection.
Is the Saint Laurent Vermeil collection still being sold?
The historical capsule collection is no longer featured in Saint Laurent's current official catalog. The pieces are primarily found on the secondhand market and through dealers specializing in fashion archives.
Which is the most famous piece of jewelry in the collection?
The Deux Clous necklace , made of silver with a gold finish, is one of the most documented creations of the launch.
Official French sources
- Kering – Appointment of Hedi Slimane as Chief Creative Officer.
- Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control – Labelling of jewellery and regulatory definition of vermeil.
- Saint Laurent France – Official catalogue of precious jewelry and creations in 18 carat gold.
