Historic houses are transforming their heritage into a contemporary language
Between heritage, technical innovation, and new ways of wearing jewelry, the landscape of luxury jewelry and watchmaking has never been so diverse. The major houses continue to keep century-old creations alive, while a generation of designers is transforming piercing, personalization, and traceability into new territories of expression.
This evolution does not signal the disappearance of iconic watches. On the contrary, it confirms their enduring power: a Tank watch, an Alhambra motif, or a Speedmaster remain desirable because their identity is instantly recognizable. Alongside these, brands like Maria Tash, Jade Trau, The Last Line, and Hannah Martin offer a more intimate vision of luxury, conceived around the body, comfort, and individuality.
In the luxury sector, an iconic creation only remains relevant if it can be reinterpreted. Changing proportions, introducing a new material, or adapting a bracelet is not enough: the piece must evolve without becoming unrecognizable.
Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels have mastered this balance particularly well. Their historical creations are not treated as static objects, but as vocabularies from which each generation can draw inspiration.
Cartier Tank: an architecture of time born in 1917
Designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, the Tank watch has become one of the most recognizable silhouettes in modern watchmaking. Its two parallel lugs visually extend the bracelet, while the Roman numerals, sword hands, and cabochon-set crown create an instantly identifiable graphic language. Depending on the model, this cabochon can be made of sapphire or synthetic spinel.
The Tank's strength lies less in its complexity than in the perfect balance of its proportions. Rectangular without being rigid, elegant without being overly formal, it complements both masculine and feminine silhouettes. This ability to transcend categorization explains its enduring appeal.
The Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Must, and Tank Française variations demonstrate how a brand can evolve an icon through successive refinements: mechanical or quartz movement, steel or gold case, classic or minimalist dial. Yet the original design remains clearly legible.
To extend this discovery, check out our feature on thehistory of Cartier and its iconic collections.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: the talisman that has become an icon
In 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled its first Alhambra sautoir necklace. Inspired by the four-leaf clover, the motif reflects the Maison's long-standing tradition of celebrating good fortune. The archives reveal clovers dating back to 1906, well before the collection took its now-famous form.
Enclosed by a delicate beaded border, Alhambra lends itself naturally to repetition. The motif can become a pendant, bracelet, ring, watch, or long necklace. It is available in guilloché gold, mother-of-pearl, malachite, onyx, agate, or ornamental stones, each material altering the way the piece captures light.
This modularity perfectly suits contemporary lifestyles. An Alhambra piece can be worn alone as a discreet lucky charm or layered with other jewelry in a stacking. The collection thus transcends generations without being confined to a single era.
It illustrates an essential rule of contemporary high jewelry : the longevity of a piece of jewelry depends as much on the coherence of its design as on the quality of its execution.
Luxury piercing redefines the relationship between jewelry and anatomy
Contemporary jewelry no longer simply adorns the body. It engages in a dialogue with its architecture. Ears, cartilage, phalanges, and facial curves become spaces for composition in their own right.
This evolution has fostered the rise of luxury piercings, single earrings, asymmetrical jewelry, and personalized layering. It brings jewelry closer to fashion, styling, and sometimes studio experience.
Maria Tash and the art of the "Curated Ear"
Maria Tash has helped transform piercing into a true jewelry experience. The designer is notably associated with Curated Ear®, an approach based on the intentional placement of multiple rings and studs to create a composition tailored to each client's anatomy and style.
The revolution lies as much in the service as in the product. The appointment combines piercing expertise, placement selection, and a choice of precious jewelry. The ear becomes a personal map in which diamonds, gold, and miniature pieces replace the piercing jewelry that was once primarily functional.
This approach addresses a central expectation of contemporary luxury: no longer owning exactly the same set as everyone else. Even when the jewelry comes from a collection, its arrangement creates a unique result.
The trend is part of a broader development of anatomical jewelry and new representations of the body.
Jade Trau: the diamond designed for everyday life
In New York, Jade Trau develops jewelry based on clean lines, discreet settings, and a deep understanding of diamonds. Before launching her own brand, the designer worked as a diamond buyer, an experience that directly influences her selection of stones and her jewelry designs.
The brand states that it uses exclusively natural diamonds andrecycled gold for the majority of its creations. This precise wording deserves to be retained: it provides information on the materials actually used by the company without automatically transforming each piece of jewelry into an absolute environmental promise.
The pieces are designed to be worn regularly. The low settings, flexible joints, and balanced proportions allow diamonds to become part of everyday life rather than remaining associated only with special occasions.
Jade Trau thus belongs to a generation for whom the value of a jewel depends as much on its comfort as on its carat weight.
Iconic watches remain cultural touchstones
Despite the proliferation of new releases, certain iconic luxury watches continue to shape the collective imagination. Their value lies not only in their movement or finishes, but also in the coherence between form, function, and narrative.
Omega and Bell & Ross embody two very different interpretations of the instrument watch: one linked to space exploration, the other to the aeronautical world.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch: From Chronograph to Space Legend
The Speedmaster holds a special place inwatchmaking history. On March 1, 1965, NASA declared it suitable for its manned space missions. It subsequently accompanied the Apollo program and became the first watch worn on the Moon in July 1969.
TheApollo 11 moon landing took place on July 20, 1969.Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin explored the lunar surface while Michael Collins remained in orbit aboard the command module.
This historical legitimacy does not exempt Omega from evolving the Moonwatch. Contemporary versions can notably be equipped with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 3861, presented by the brand as the modern evolution of the family of movements used by astronauts in the lunar program.
The essentials remain unchanged: a highly legible dial, three subdials, a tachymeter scale, and manual winding on the models most faithful to the historical spirit. The modernization focuses on precision, magnetic resistance, materials, and finishing quality, without erasing the chronograph's identity.
Bell & Ross BR-03: The cockpit transposed to the wrist
Bell & Ross was built around a clear idea: to design a watch as a cockpit instrument. The BR-03 collection translates this principle with its famous "circle in a square with four screws", directly inspired by the dials found in aircraft cockpits.
Readability takes precedence over decoration. The numerals are generous, the contrasts are bold, and the hands are easily visible. Form is not added after function; it flows from it.
The contemporary BR-03 notably adopts a 41 mm case on several references and an announced power reserve of 54 hours for models equipped with the BR-CAL.302-1 caliber.
Its square design gives it a distinctive character, but its functional coherence prevents it from becoming a mere aesthetic exercise. It appeals to enthusiasts who seek a strong identity rather than conventional discretion.
To better understand the criteria that distinguish these pieces, consult our guide dedicated to luxury watches and jewelry.
Jewelry designers to watch: color, custom-made, and attitude
The new players are not necessarily seeking to compete with the major houses in the field of traditional high jewelry. They are inventing other points of entry: direct sales, more transparent pricing, collectible pieces, personalized orders or radical aesthetics.
The Last Line: the precious jewel freed from its conventions
Founded by Shelley and Teddy Sanders, The Last Line designs jewelry in Los Angeles and presents it as "next-generation heirlooms." The brand prioritizes pieces designed for everyday wear and advocates a direct distribution model.
Diamonds, colored stones, hoop earrings, and customizable jewelry create a playful world. Classic styles are not rejected: they are made more spontaneous, easier to collect, and less intimidating.
This vision reflects the evolving relationship with fine jewelry. A ring or a pair of earrings can maintain high-quality craftsmanship while adopting playful proportions or bold colors.
This attraction to contrasts and expressive gems coincides with the rise of fine jewelry re-enchanted by color.
Hannah Martin: a sculptural and unruly London jewelry brand
Hannah Martin founded her London-based company in 2006, after extensive training in fine jewelry techniques. Her aesthetic draws inspiration from rock, punk, and alternative cultures as well as traditional craftsmanship.
Sculptural rings, chains, pins, handcuffs, and deliberately provocative details compose an immediately recognizable language. Some pieces combine several colors of gold, while others reinterpret the safety pin or the codes of piercing.
The designer also offers a bespoke service , conceived as a process of discussion and collaboration around a unique piece.
With HM Pierced, this universe extends into piercing jewelry. The body is no longer considered a simple canvas: it becomes the starting point for the design.
Major trends in jewelry and watchmaking in 2026
Personalization is becoming a true luxury service
Engraving, choosing a stone, transforming an old piece of jewelry, ear composition or custom order: jewelry personalization is no longer limited to adding initials.
It begins with the initial dialogue with the client. Luxury then lies in listening, selection, and the ability to offer a creation tailored to a story or body type.
This logic reinforces the emotional dimension of jewelry. A personalized piece possesses a relational value that transcends its purely material worth.
Traceability is gradually replacing general declarations
The term " ethical jewelry " is too broad to be used without explanation. Credible information must specify what is traceable: the origin of the gold, the proportion of recycled metal, the type of diamonds, any certification, the place of manufacture, or the processing conditions.
Lab-grown diamonds now occupy a prominent place in the market, but they should not automatically be presented as environmentally friendly. Their impact depends, in particular, on the energy used in their production. Similarly, a natural diamond cannot be considered responsible without information about its origin and supply chain.
For the houses, the challenge is therefore no longer just to promise, but to document.
Minimalism is measured by the duration of wear
Minimalist jewelry is not necessarily small or neutral. Rather, it is characterized by a clear line, comfortable construction, and the ability to remain relevant beyond a single season.
This understated style encourages layering: thin rings, rigid bracelets, chains, and watches can be combined without overwhelming the look. It also reflects a desire for versatility, as customers want to wear the pieces they purchase more often.
The Fall-Winter 2025-2026 jewelry trends already showed this coexistence between assertive volumes, textures and jewelry intended to accompany the wardrobe for a long time.
Repairability, maintenance, and transmission become value propositions
In watchmaking as in jewelry, true durability comes from service. A well-maintained watch, a replaced clasp, or a resized ring can last for generations.
The availability of parts, the quality of after-sales service, and the transmission of artisanal skills all contribute directly to the value of a luxury item. This goes beyond environmental communication; it concerns the practical ability to preserve and use a creation for decades.
The issue of transmission is also at the heart of our article dedicated to the training of future watchmaking artisans.
Watch fairs: key dates for 2026 and 2027
Geneva Watch Days 2026: September 2-6
Geneva Watch Days will return from Wednesday 2 to Sunday 6 September 2026.The event retains its open and decentralized format, with several presentation venues spread across Geneva and a central pavilion serving as a meeting point.
This organization fosters direct exchanges with independent brands, executives, and watchmakers. It complements the more institutional format of Watches and Wonders.
Watches and Wonders Geneva 2027: April 5 to 11
The 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders took place from April 14 to 20, 2026, with 65 exhibiting houses and three days open to the public.
The next edition is officially scheduled from Monday, April 5th to Sunday, April 11th, 2027.The days open to the general public will take place from Friday, April 9th to Sunday, April 11th. Breitling, Damiani, Gallet, and Universal Genève are among the announced new exhibitors.
Dubai Watch Week: an anniversary edition in 2025
The seventh Dubai Watch Week took place from November 19 to 23, 2025, around the Dubai Mall and Burj Park. The event celebrated its tenth anniversary by bringing together more than 90 brands, as well as a program of conferences and experiences.
As of July 31, 2026, the official website was still promoting the 2025 edition without publishing any new dates for an event in 2026.
Baselworld: a historic chapter now closed
Baselworld no longer structures the international calendar as it once did. Its last physical edition was held in 2019. The 2020 edition was then cancelled in the context of the pandemic, before the watchmaking ecosystem reorganized itself around new formats.
Its legacy remains important, but Watches and Wonders, Geneva Watch Days and events organized directly by groups or manufacturers have taken over most of its media and commercial role.
Why follow these houses now?
All these brands share a common ability: to make their identity visible without needing an oversized logo.
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Omega , and Bell & Ross rely on instantly recognizable designs. Maria Tash transforms anatomy into a space for styling. Jade Trau prioritizes comfort and knowledge of diamonds. The Last Line makes jewelry more spontaneous, while Hannah Martin champions a sculptural and subversive aesthetic.
Their common point is therefore not a style, but a method: combining know-how, narrative, use and coherence.
In a market saturated with images, the creations that endure are those that are recognizable, that are actually worn, and that can be maintained. A talismanic piece of jewelry, a watch-instrument, or a piercing arrangement only has meaning if it finds its place in someone's life.
Perhaps this is where the most contemporary definition of luxury lies: no longer just possessing a rare object, but choosing a piece capable of becoming personal, familiar and, one day, transmissible.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which jewelry houses will be the must-sees in 2026?
Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels remain major players thanks to instantly recognizable collections like Tank, Love, Panthère, and Alhambra. Designers such as Maria Tash, Jade Trau, and Hannah Martin also deserve attention for their approach to piercing, everyday diamonds, and bespoke jewelry.
Which iconic watches should you know about?
The Cartier Tank, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Bell & Ross BR-03 illustrate three different conceptions of the iconic watch: architectural elegance, space chronograph and aviation-inspired instrument.
What are the most important jewelry trends?
Personalization, stacking, anatomical jewelry, color, material traceability, and everyday comfort are among the most influential trends. Repairability and the ability to pass on pieces are also becoming increasingly important.
What is the difference between a natural diamond and a lab-grown diamond?
Natural diamonds form in the Earth over an extremely long period. Lab-grown diamonds are produced using a technological process that replicates the conditions under which diamonds form. Both have a comparable crystalline structure, but their origin, rarity, price, and market differ.
What is the next major watch fair?
Geneva Watch Days will take place from September 2nd to 6th, 2026. The next edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva will then take place from April 5th to 11th, 2027.
Official French sources
- Cartier France – Tank collection, history of the watch designed by Louis Cartier in 1917 and characteristics of its different models.
- Van Cleef & Arpels France – history of the Alhambra collection, created in 1968 around the motif of the four-leaf clover.
- Bell & Ross – BR-03 collection in French, presentation of the "circle in a square" design and its aeronautical inspiration.
