At first glance, they were just simple flat sandals by Prada, presented at a fashion show in Milan. But within days, these shoes sparked a media storm. On social media, in the Indian press, and then internationally, the same criticism kept recurring: the striking resemblance between these "ultra-luxury" models and Kolhapuri chappals, traditional Indian sandals that have become a symbol of regional craftsmanship over the centuries.
Sold at a stratospheric price compared to the originals, the Prada model evoked neither India, nor Kolhapur, nor the artisans behind this expertise. Accusations of cultural appropriation quickly followed, culminating in a lawsuit in India: a PIL, or Public Interest Litigation, to denounce this misappropriation of a product benefiting from a protected geographical indication.
What could have remained a "bad buzz" of a few days will, in reality, push the Italian company to revise its approach.
The controversy: appropriation or poorly acknowledged admiration?
To understand why the affair has escalated to such a degree, we must look at what Kolhapuri chappals represent. These sandals, handcrafted since the 12th century, are the product of a highly codified craft: vegetable-tanned leather, complex braiding, and instantly recognizable shapes. They are now protected by a geographical indication that reserves the name "Kolhapuri chappal" for certain districts in the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.
When Prada unveiled its sandals inspired by this design, without mentioning their origin, the artisans reacted with fierce anger. Many spoke of symbolic "theft": their work, their patterns, their history—everything was thrust onto an international catwalk without them being consulted, credited, or compensated fairly for the expertise involved. Lawyers and intellectual property specialists weighed in, highlighting the limitations of the system for protecting traditional cultural expressions.
Prada eventually publicly acknowledged that the collection was indeed inspired by these Indian sandals and stated that it wanted to rectify the situation by working more ethically with the communities involved.
Kolhapur, a city of artisans and leather
Behind the controversy, there are thousands of very real lives. In Kolhapur and the surrounding districts, more than 10,000 artisans still live, entirely or partially, from the production of Kolhapuri chappals.
Most of them work in family businesses, in small workshops where almost everything is done by hand:
- cutting and tanning of leather
- braiding the strips,
- nail-free assembly,
- meticulous decorative motifs, sometimes made by the women of the house.
The paradox is that this internationally recognized craft is struggling to survive: competition from cheap industrial products, difficulties in accessing raw materials, low margins, lack of access to international markets… While “inspired” versions of these sandals sell for several hundred euros in Western capitals, artisans sometimes struggle to sell their own models for a few hundred rupees.
It is this brutal and unjust divide that the Prada controversy has brutally brought to light.
From crisis to collaboration: Prada's turning point
After several months of criticism, public statements, and discussions with Indian authorities, Prada is changing its tune. The fashion house acknowledges the Indian inspiration behind its sandals and is entering into a formal collaboration with the local institutions that regulate the leather sector: LIDCOM (Maharashtra) and LIDKAR (Karnataka).
In December 2025, a memorandum of understanding was signed. The idea: to produce a limited line of "Made in India" sandals, crafted directly by the artisans involved, and then distributed through a network of Prada boutiques worldwide. This is far from a simple exotic gesture: the agreement spans several years and includes training, the sharing of technical skills, and commitments regarding compensation and visibility.
In a context where the word "appropriation" often comes up in fashion debates, this is a way for Prada to try to move from appropriation tostructured appreciation : recognizing the source, working with it, associating it with the value created. On paper, at least.
What exactly does this partnership entail?
The core of the agreement lies in a few key points:
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Production in India : the sandals are made directly in the regions authorized to use the Kolhapuri name, by trained and supervised artisans, with locally processed materials.
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Global launch : Prada plans to sell these models in around forty stores worldwide, starting in February 2026, as well as online.
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Limited edition and luxury price : approximately 2,000 pairs, sold at around $800-930 / 80,000-85,000 rupees per pair, far below local prices.
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Training program : selected artisans benefit from technical training, internships related to quality and design, some even being able to travel to Prada facilities in Italy for skills exchanges.
The stated objective: to elevate this expertise, positioning it within the international luxury market while supporting a struggling artisanal sector. On paper, the initiative seems like a win-win situation. In reality, as is often the case, everything will hinge on the execution.
A welcome boost for the local economy
For the artisans of Kolhapur, being associated with the Prada name is significant. It means access to a global clientele they could never have reached on their own, but also benefiting from a fresh perspective on their own products.
In the first phase of the project, between 100 and 150 artisans need to be specifically trained for this collaboration. They are paid at a higher level than their usual income, which represents a lifeline for families sometimes on the verge of economic hardship.
More broadly, the presence of a major international brand can attract the attention of other players: distributors, online platforms, concept stores… If the project works, it could pave the way for other partnerships, not only with Prada but with other brands seeking to integrate authentic craftsmanship into their collections.
One sensitive issue remains: for now, the initial agreement does not provide for a direct sharing of profits from the sale of these luxury sandals. The artisans are paid more, but do not yet receive royalties, even though the final price will skyrocket once the sandals arrive in stores. A second agreement including this aspect has been discussed by the Indian authorities, but has not yet been signed.
Preserving threatened know-how
Beyond the financial aspect, this partnership raises the question of the future of Kolhapuri chappal. Most of the younger generation of artisans are turning away from this craft: uncertain income, physically demanding work, and a lack of recognition. Many are leaving the villages to seek better-paying jobs in the city.
By elevating the sandal to a luxury item, Prada, if the project is carried out seriously, contributes to restoring pride to this craftsmanship. Seeing their work displayed in the windows of a major department store in Milan or Paris is no small feat when you've grown up making sandals for local markets.
But there is a risk: that of freezing the Kolhapuri into a "Prada-compatible" version, heavily geared towards Western tastes, at the expense of the diversity of its forms, finishes, and local uses. The balance is delicate: how to integrate the object into global luxury while respecting its original cultural plurality?
Prada: a sincere repentance or simply an image-building exercise?
It's impossible to ignore the strategic dimension of this shift. After highly critical articles, statements from elected officials, and a complaint filed with the Bombay High Court, Prada absolutely had to react.
The question many are asking is simple:
- Is this a sincere gesture, thought out with a long-term perspective?
- or a PR stunt to quell the controversy, sell a "responsible" capsule collection and move on?
For now, the signals are mixed. On the one hand, the collaboration is officially structured, with public partners and training programs that go beyond a simple one-off operation. On the other hand, the initial lack of profit-sharing and the very high price of the sandals continue to fuel criticism, which sees it as a new way of capitalizing on a fragile cultural heritage without fully redistributing its value.
Ultimately, the answer will come with time: if, in three or five years, Prada is still working with these artisans, if the agreements have evolved towards greater fairness, if other similar projects emerge, then we can speak of a transformative turning point. Otherwise, the episode will primarily be remembered as a textbook case of crisis management in the luxury sector.
When luxury (truly) discovers responsibility
What is at stake here goes far beyond the Prada case alone. For several years now, major fashion houses have been urged to be more transparent, more responsible, and more respectful of the cultures they borrow from or reinterpret. Scandals involving sacred motifs, religious symbols, or local traditions appropriated without context are multiplying, and consumers are no longer so readily accepting the argument of "artistic inspiration."
The collaboration between Prada and the artisans of Kolhapur could serve as a model, or a warning, for other brands. It shows that it is possible to:
- recognize a mistake,
- return to the source of inspiration,
- to build a structured partnership with the communities concerned.
But she also reminds us that responsibility cannot be decreed : it is measured over time, in contracts, in how value is shared. Putting a logo of a major brand on a traditional product is not enough to make it "ethical".
Ultimately, it is the conditions of production, remuneration, and governance that will make the difference.
And what does this change for consumers?
From the customer's perspective, this story raises a very direct question: buying a pair of " Prada x Kolhapur " Kolhapuri shoes for over 800 euros is obviously nothing like buying a traditional pair in an Indian market. The object, the context, the use are not the same. But more and more consumers want to know if this price includes, at least in part, fairer compensation for the artisans who keep this craft alive.
If Prada communicates clearly on:
- the number of artisans involved,
- the level of remuneration,
- commitments regarding working conditions,
- the tangible benefits for local communities,
Then these sandals can embody something more than a mere luxury indulgence. Without this transparency, they risk remaining the emblem of a system where cultural value and economic profit never truly intersect.
Towards a new narrative for Prada?
For Prada, this collaboration is also an opportunity to rewrite part of its history. Until now, the house has mainly told its story through the prism of the avant-garde, sophisticated minimalism, andItalian creative intelligence.
By publicly associating itself with a craft like that of the Kolhapuri chappals, it adds another string to its bow: that of a brand capable of engaging with traditions that are spatially and socially distant from its original world.
If this narrative is embraced and explored in depth, Prada could become an example of relational luxury, based on a networking of skills and stories rather than a simple appropriation of cultural signs.
If, on the other hand, the collaboration remains anecdotal, it will be filed in the long list of responsible initiatives with no future, which are mainly brought up in CSR reports.
A new chapter, to be written collaboratively.
" Prada and Indian craftsmanship" is no longer just the story of a scandal over overpriced and incorrectly credited sandals. It may be the beginning of something else: an attempt to repair, redistribute, and recognize the value of a fragile yet precious craft.
Nothing is guaranteed. For this new chapter to truly be celebrated, promises must translate into fairer contracts, sustainable partnerships, and clear benefits for artisans, and not just storytelling for communication campaigns.
But a door has opened: the one where a major house like Prada agrees to no longer place itself alone at the center, and to admit that behind an " it-shoe " are hidden hands, faces, a story that deserves better than to be simply copied.
The next chapter will now unfold far from the catwalks: in the workshops of Kolhapur, in the negotiations surrounding the upcoming agreements, and in the eyes of consumers who, by choosing whether or not to buy these sandals, will tell Prada if they, too, believe in this new direction.
