Delfina Delettrez, a designer who is changing the codes of jewelry
With Infinity, her spring-summer 2013 collection, Delfina Delettrez doesn't just design jewelry. She constructs moving images. Pearls that seem to float, mirrored cubes, reflective surfaces, doubled volumes: each creation challenges the eye and transforms the body into a testing ground.
This collection occupies a unique place in the recent history of contemporary jewelry. It combines the expertise of Roman workshops, surrealist humor, geometry, and unexpected materials such as colored rubber and resin. More than ten years after its presentation, Infinity remains a particularly relevant manifesto: that of a precious jewel that no longer merely adorns, but creates a visual experience.
Born into a family closely linked to Italian fashion, Delfina Delettrez Fendi grew up surrounded by the workshops, materials, and visual culture of Rome. When she founded her own fashion house in 2007, she nevertheless chose to build an independent style.
Her world lies at the intersection of figurative surrealism, anatomy, nature, and technical experimentation. Eyes, lips, hands, insects, pearls, and precious stones become the actors in a miniature theater. The jewelry is never entirely subdued. It observes, moves, becomes unbalanced, or gives the impression of defying gravity.
The designer's official website now describes "phantom settings," meaning settings designed to create the illusion of suspended stones. It also highlights the role of asymmetry, kinetic elements, and differences in scale in her work. The pieces are crafted in Rome by specialized goldsmiths, combining traditional techniques with contemporary processes, including 3D printing.
This approach explains why Delfina Delettrez's jewelry fits as naturally into the field of contemporary jewelry as it does into those of fashion, art, and design.
Infinity, the spring-summer 2013 collection that disrupts perception
Presented for Spring/Summer 2013, Infinity is aptly named. The term evokes infinity, repetition, mirroring, and mise en abyme. In this collection, a form is never simply what it appears to be.
A single pearl can appear to multiply. A metallic element transforms into a visual corridor. A glossy surface artificially extends the depth of a ring or bracelet. Edges, voids, and reflections compose an architecture precise enough to deceive the eye.
Delfina Delettrez explained that she wanted to play with optical illusions, notably by placing pearls and rubies in resin, facing reflective metallic surfaces. The stones multiply as if in a hall of mirrors. The collection also marks the introduction of colored rubber into her vocabulary, with the ambition of elevating an everyday material to the status of a luxury item.
The mirror as a jewelry material
In Infinity, the mirror is not simply a decorative ornament. It acts as a construction tool.
Traditionally, jewelry uses the polish of metal to amplify the brilliance of a stone. Delfina Delettrez takes this principle further: the reflective surface becomes a second space. She creates an imaginary depth, extends lines, and makes volumes appear that do not materially exist.
The jewel thus becomes a miniature optical device. Its appearance evolves with the angle of the wrist, the movement of the hand, the surrounding light, and the position of the person looking at it.
Geometry and construction games
Infinity's inspiration is also linked to construction toys and childhood imagination. The designer specifically mentioned the times she spent playing with blocks with her daughter. This reference brings to the collection its vocabulary of cubes, modules, stacks, and symmetries.
But childhood is never treated naively. Elementary forms are translated into a precise, almost architectural style. A polished cube becomes a chamber of reflection. A metallic line transforms into an axis of symmetry. A void gives the impression that a stone is balanced unsupported.
This combination of spontaneity and rigor is one of the great strengths of Delfina Delettrez's jewelry design.
Precious materials and unexpected materials
Infinity is based on carefully orchestrated contrasts. The designer is not seeking homogeneity, but rather the confrontation between several visual and tactile temperatures.
Gold and silver
The combination of goldand silverfor a play on the warmth and coolness of the metals. Gold naturally attracts light and evokes a sunny feeling. Silver produces a cooler, almost industrial luminosity.
When they meet on the same ring, the two metals create a visible boundary. The junction line becomes a graphic element in its own right and can serve as the axis for a symmetrical composition.
The pearls
The pearl occupies an essential place in Delfina Delettrez's vocabulary. Its smooth, organic and pearly surface contrasts with the angles of the cubes and the sharpness of the polished metal.
In Infinity, she doesn't embody classic or bourgeois elegance. She becomes a point of light, a punctuation mark, or a weightless celestial body. The play of mirrors can give the impression that a single pearl is repeated infinitely.
This way of renewing a heritage gem is part of a broader trend, analyzed in our article on contemporary pearl rings.
Enamels, stones and resin
Enamels othercolored stones introduce bold flat areas amidst reflective surfaces. Where a faceted stone scatters light, enamel produces a more stable, almost graphic color.
The resin, meanwhile, allows a stone to be held in a transparent space and accentuates the impression of suspension. It belongs more to the vocabulary of industrial design than to that of traditional jewelry, which reinforces the experimental nature of the collection.
Rubber
Black or colored rubber represents one of Infinity's boldest choices. Matte, flexible, and suitable for everyday use, it directly contrasts with the shine of metal and the symbolic value of gemstones.
This contrast produces a less demonstrative form of contemporary luxury. Preciousness no longer rests solely on the price of materials, but on the intelligence of their combination.
This freedom had already found another expression in the vibrant jewelry designed by Delfina Delettrez for Kenzo, where the designer also combined color, resin, humor and trompe-l'oeil.
Three standout pieces from the Infinity collection
The two-tone pearl ring
The half-gold, half-silver ring, topped with a pearl, perfectly encapsulates the collection's philosophy. The band creates a tension between two metallic hues. The separation between gold and silver is not meant to disappear; it structures the piece. Positioned above this line, the pearl becomes a focal point.
Depending on the viewing angle, it appears to be resting, suspended, or slightly displaced in relation to the ring. The piece of jewelry thus transforms a minimalist composition into a visual experience.
The ring is made of gold, enamel, zircons, and peridots
More colorful, the ring, combining gold, zircons, enamel, and peridots, plays with depth through layering. The brilliance of the pavé setting meets the chromatic density of the enamel. The green stones introduce an additional vibrancy, while the variations in texture prevent the eye from focusing on a single plane. The color is therefore not merely decorative; it helps to separate volumes and enhance theoptical effect.
The bracelet made of rubber, pearls, and mirrored cubes
The black rubber strap is one of Infinity's most instantly recognizable pieces. A bead is framed by two reflective cubes. The matte material absorbs light while the metallic surfaces reflect it.
The pearl then appears to repeat itself inside the cubes, as if in a tunnel of mirrors. The contrast between the suppleness of the rubber and the rigid geometry of the polished elements reinforces the sensation of depth.
The object seems simple. Yet its effect is complex: the bracelet alone organizes a dialogue between matte and shiny, flexible and rigid, organic and geometric.
Surreal jewelry, but actually wearable
The conceptual nature of Infinity does not condemn the jewelry to remain in a display case. The most spectacular effects are concentrated on specific areas: a pearl, a cube, a line of metal, or a mirrored surface.
This readability makes it easier to wear. The design can remain the sole strong element of an outfit, without requiring a theatrical look.
Delfina Delettrez champions a dynamic relationship between the body and jewelry. Her pieces are designed to move with the body, interact with the skin, and evolve depending on how they are worn. This exploration of the close connection between design, body, and function is now found in several Italian houses, as also demonstrated by our analysis of Pomellato at the Palais de Tokyo.
How to wear an Infinity jewel
With a minimalist silhouette
A pearl ring or a mirrored bracelet is all it takes to add dimension to a white shirt, a thick t-shirt, or a black suit. The garment creates a neutral backdrop. The jewelry then becomes the focal point of the outfit.
With a bold color
Enamels and peridots can complement a solid-colored garment: intense blue, bottle green, dark red, or burnt orange. It's best to avoid too many patterns. A single, clear color gives the jewelry the space it needs to express its volume and reflections.
By mixing the finishes
A mirrored surface gains intensity when paired with a matte material: brushed silver, dry fabric, smooth leather, or rubber. This contrast highlights the shine without turning the outfit into a jumble of effects.
In the evening
A statement piece or a kaleidoscopic necklace can add structure to a column dress, a flowing tuxedo, or a monochrome jumpsuit. Other jewelry should then remain understated. Large earrings could compete with the visual movement of the necklace.
In controlled accumulation
Two two-tone rings can create an interesting graphic grid, provided that space is maintained between the volumes. The goal is not to fill every finger, but to create a rhythm: warm metal, cool metal, pearl, empty space, then a new point of light.
Why does Infinity remain an important collection?
Infinity belongs to a period when designer jewelry began to circulate more freely between several disciplines. It borrows its structures from design, its shifts in perception from contemporary art, and its direct relationship with the silhouette from fashion.
The collection demonstrates above all that modern jewelry design does not necessarily involve a break with traditional craftsmanship. On the contrary, the effects of suspension, polishing, and balancing require great precision in execution.
The know-how does not disappear behind the concept. It makes the concept possible.
Delfina Delettrez continues to extend this vocabulary today through open rings, seemingly suspended diamonds, pearls detached from the band, and asymmetrical jewelry. The house notably presents the Dots ring as a "phantom design" where diamonds and pearls appear to float around the finger.
Infinity thus appears less as an isolated experience than as a foundational chapter in a now immediately recognizable style of writing.
From precious object to museum object
Delfina Delettrez received institutional recognition very early on. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris notably holds a bracelet created in 2007 , composed of patinated silver, gold, Tahitian pearls, peridots and enamel.
This presence in a museum collection is a reminder that her work transcends mere fashion. The jewelry documents an evolution in practices: a return of surrealism, the hybridization of materials, the importance of narrative, and a questioning of traditional typologies.
A piece of jewelry by Delfina Delettrez can therefore be viewed in several ways: as an accessory, a precious object, a miniature sculpture, a design piece or a witness to the visual culture of its time.
How to care for pearls and mirror surfaces?
Polished finishes and organic materials require a few simple precautions. Wipe the jewelry after each wear with a soft, non-abrasive cloth; avoid direct contact with perfume, hairspray, lotions, and household products; put on jewelry after applying makeup and remove it before sports activities; do not immerse pieces containing pearls, resin, or rubber; store each piece of jewelry separately to avoid scratching mirrored surfaces; and have the settings and moving parts checked periodically by a professional.
Pearls are particularly sensitive to heat, perfumes, and friction. The official website also recommends storing jewelry separately and handling it with care.
Frequently Asked Questions about Delfina Delettrez and Infinity
Who is Delfina Delettrez?
Delfina Delettrez Fendi is a designer and jeweler based in Rome. She founded her eponymous fashion house in 2007 and developed a universe blending surrealism, anatomy, nature, asymmetry and illusions of suspension.
What is the Infinity collection?
Infinity is Delfina Delettrez's Spring/Summer 2013 collection. It explores repetition and optical illusion through mirrors, polished metals, resin, pearls, stones, and colored rubber.
Why do the stones seem to float?
The designer uses open rings, discreet stems, transparent resins, and so-called "ghost" settings. The visual support disappears to give the impression that the stones or pearls are suspended around the body.
What materials are found in Infinity?
The collection notably combines gold, silver, pearls, rubies, peridots, zircons, enamels, resin, rubber and reflective metallic surfaces.
Can Infinity jewelry be worn every day?
Yes, provided you choose a statement piece and maintain a certain simplicity in the rest of your outfit. A pearl ring or a mirrored bracelet can transform a minimalist look without weighing it down.
Infinity, a micro-theater for light
With Infinity, Delfina Delettrez transforms optical illusion into a jewelry language. Mirrors extend volumes, pearls defy gravity, and everyday materials meet the techniques of Roman goldsmithing.
The collection does not choose between the intelligence of the concept and the pleasure of wearing a beautiful piece of jewelry. It unites the two.
This is precisely what explains its power: Infinity first attracts the eye, then compels it to look a second time. In this subtle gap between reality and perception, a very contemporary form of luxury is born: sensitive, playful, and profoundly memorable.
Official French sources
- Decorative Arts – “Brambles with Two Snakes” Bracelet by Delfina Delettrez
- Samaritaine – Fendi history and the appointment of Delfina Delettrez Fendi as artistic director of jewelry in September 2020.
- Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion – Matter and Shape, contemporary design between creation, know-how and experimentation.
