It's official. Maria Grazia Chiuri is taking over as creative director at Fendi , marking one of the most talked-about moves in recent fashion.
Dior 's look , the Italian designer returns to Rome to write a new chapter in the house founded in 1925. Her first collection is announced for February during Milan Fashion Week , an event already highly anticipated by the industry.
An exceptional career path, from Fendi to Dior, then a return to his roots
Before Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri cut her teeth at Fendi in the late 1980s, particularly in accessories, where she contributed to the rise of icons like the Baguette alongside the house team.
She then co-directed Valentino with Pierpaolo Piccioli , before becoming the first woman appointed to the artistic direction of Dior in 2016. Her departure from 30 Avenue Montaigne was confirmed for spring 2025, closing a period marked by collections that were both commercial and cultural.
Why Fendi, why now?
In 2025, Fendi enters a new phase. Silvia Venturini Fendi , guardian of the family legacy and virtuoso of leather, passes the creative torch while retaining an honorary position. LVMH then makes a clear strategic decision.
Entrusting the overall vision to a designer capable of articulating Roman heritage, contemporary desire, and atelier excellence. Maria Grazia Chiuri is perceived as both an emotional and rational move. Emotional, because it's a homecoming. Rational, because her sense of storytelling and desirability has already proven itself in the business world.
A vision announced: Roman heritage and inclusive modernity
Maria Grazia Chiuri 's strength lies in her ability to reinterpret a house's DNA through clear and concise writing. At Fendi , this translates into several key areas: showcasing the Romanesque heritage and artisanal spirit of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana; and reaffirming the technical superiority of leather and responsibly sourced fur, from the saddlery collections to ready-to-wear.
Amplifying the conversation with female audiences through meaningful collections, free from heavy-handed messaging. In practice, this translates into fluid silhouettes, sensual fabrics, distinctive accessories, and carefully crafted cultural communication. Observers anticipate a synthesis between the designer's penchant for historical references and Fendi .
The creative and business challenges that await him
Taking the helm at Fendi means solving a demanding equation. Preserving the house's sculptural and architectural signature while injecting an extra dose of romantic soul. Maintaining leadership in leather goods by reinforcing the existing icon and creating the next generation. Baguette, Peekaboo, and Fendi First have shaped the past few years. Now, the challenge is to orchestrate the rotation of best-sellers and prepare for the future.
Added to this are the cross-cutting priorities of today's luxury sector: traceability, sustainability, logistical excellence, and credible digital communication. These are all areas in which Maria Grazia Chiuri has already proven her effectiveness.
What we can expect from the first fashion shows
The schedule announces a first presentation in February in Milan. Speculation is rife. A return to Roman coats of arms, a showcase of Selleria's expertise, Roman-style capes and draping, and a practical yet desirable day-to-even wardrobe. As for accessories, we can expect subtle variations on pillar bags, restrained embellishment, and new modular designs conceived for everyday use.
Haute couture , a less visible area at Fendi than ready-to-wear and fur, could benefit from a more pronounced narrative approach, in the spirit of the scenography that characterized the designer's Dior period. The specialized media are already talking about a pivotal moment for the house.
Women's creative leadership that matters
By becoming creative director of Fendi , Maria Grazia Chiuri remains one of the few women at the helm of a major European fashion house. Her approach, often imbued with a feminist perspective on clothing and performance, has helped broaden the conversation around fashion. At Fendi , this dimension translates into cultural collaborations, artistic commissions, and a greater emphasis on female artisans and workshops. Fashion gains in narrative depth and a diversity of viewpoints.
Expected impact on image and business
Appointing a star creative has a dual effect: narrative and economic. Narrative, because it creates momentum that stimulates desirability and press coverage, attracting new audiences to the Fendi brand . Economic, because a clear vision allows for a simplified offering, optimized product lines, and a more robust pricing strategy.
In a market normalizing after years of euphoria, Maria Grazia Chiuri could become a competitive advantage. Analysts expect a gradual ramp-up, with the first measurable impact starting with the collections delivered at the end of 2026.
What this appointment says about the times
The flow of talent is accelerating. Fashion houses are seeking directors capable of simultaneously embracing culture, product, and community. Maria Grazia Chiuri to Fendi illustrates another trend. Returns to one's roots, when sincere and strategic, can generate rich creative chapters.
By reconnecting the designer to her first playground, the house gives itself a chance to write a strong season, nourished by intimacy as much as by know-how.
Maria Grazia Chiuri
The appointment of Maria Grazia Chiuri as Fendi's creative director promises a fruitful dialogue between Roman heritage and enlightened modernity. In February, the industry will be closely watching a show that could establish the codes of a new era.
Between contemporary heroines, desirable accessories and workshop excellence, Fendi offers itself a unique voice to tell the story of the luxury that matters today.
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